Crete under the Ottomans (18th century)

Impact of Ottomans on Crete

Under Ottoman rule a wide variety of western European travellers visited the island. Their interests built on those already established in the Venetian period. Study of the flora of Crete continued. The French physician and botanist Tournefort, for example, collected plants from the White Mountains of Crete (south of Khania), a region already known for its rare endemic species (1701). He was followed by the English botanist John Sibthorp (1758-96), Professor of Botany at Oxford; who with John Hawkins and Ferdinand Bauer made a series of expeditions to the eastern Mediterranean between 1784 and 1795.


Staehelina petiolata, a Cretan endemic, collected by John Sibthorp in 1786.
© Oxford University Press

On Crete he also collected Cretan plants, some of which survive today.

Such work formed the basis of his great work Flora Graeca (1806), and laid the foundations for our modern environmental understanding of the island.


Staehelina petiolata , a Cretan endemic, drawn by Ferdinand Bauer ca. 1793.
© Oxford University Press

Travellers interested more in the people and the island as a whole reached new levels with the publication of Richard Pococke's A Description of the East and Some Other Countries (1743-5), which included an account of his visit to Crete (which he calls Candia) in 1739. He described life in the cities, noted styles of dress, and even local commercial conditions:

'The people of this part of Candia [i.e. Sphakia] are stout men and drive a great coasting trade round the island in small boats, by carrying wood, corn, and other merchandizes.'

Pococke was also the first English traveller to take a serious interest in the antiquities of the island, many of whose sites he correctly identified. One site, however, was to remain problematic for some time, and that is the Labyrinth. Classical texts stated that there was a complicated building called the Labyrinth at a place called Knossos on Crete. At Knossos itself, in north-central Crete, there was then almost nothing to be seen of the antiquities, though Pococke did examine a large Roman built tomb, known in his day by the Cretans as 'The Tomb of Caiaphas' (he was correctly dismissive of this identification).

Previous travellers had seen the tunnels of the ancient quarries near a site with obvious ancient ruins called Gortyn, in south-central Crete, and had decided that these must be the remains of the Labyrinth. He studied the ruins of Gortyn (a sketch plan had already been published by Tournefort), and the so-called Labyrinth nearby:

'Going about a mile further to the south west, we ascended the hills, and came near to the top of them, to what is called the Labyrinth; though that famous building, so renowned in history, was at Knossos, and no remains of it were to be seen in the time of Pliny [first century AD]. This place is nothing more than the quarry out of which the city of Gortynia was built.'

Pococke was indeed right that this was not the Labyrinth, which remained to be discovered at Knossos. (For further information on the myths associated with Crete, see Unit 2 Session 2 Lesson 2.)

Further Reading

For some extracts from the writings of 18th - 19th century travellers on Crete (Edward Lear, Captain Spratt, Richard Pococke and Robert Pashley) see:

  Author(s): Johan de Bakker.
  Title: Across Crete – Part 1: From Khania (Chania) to Herakleion
  Year: 2001
  Publisher: Logos Tekstproducties
  Published in: Amsterdam
  ISBN: 90-806150-1-3
The book can be ordered via www.logostext.com, which includes two extracts.


  Author(s): Rowena Fowler.
  Title: Edward Lear: The Cretan Journal
  Year: 1984
  Publisher: Denise Harvey
  Published in: Athens
Alternate edition:

  Author(s): Rowena Fowler.
  Title: Edward Lear: The Cretan Journal
  Year: 1984
  Publisher: Denise Harvey
  Published in: Dedham


  Author(s): Robert Pashley.
  Title: Travels in Crete (2 volumes)
  Year: 1837
  Publisher: John Murray
  Published in: London
Alternate edition:

  Author(s): Robert Pashley.
  Title: Travels in Crete (2 volumes, reprinted)
  Year: 1970
  Publisher: Hakkert
  Published in: Amsterdam


  Author(s): Richard Jenkyns.
  Title: The Victorians and Ancient Greece
  Year: 1980
  Publisher: Blackwell
  Published in: Oxford
Useful for the English cultural background.
Alternate publisher:

  Author(s): Richard Jenkyns.
  Title: The Victorians and Ancient Greece
  Year: 1980
  Publisher: Harvard University Press
  Published in: Cambridge, Mass
Useful for the English cultural background.


  Author(s): H. Walter Lack, David J. Mabberley.
  Title: The Flora Graeca Story: Sibthorp, Bauer and Hawkins in the Levant
  Year: 1999
  Publisher: Oxford University Press
  Published in: Oxford